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tf2 heavy weapons guy costume

by:Max Apparel     2020-08-28
What self-respecting nerds don\'t want to be part of Team Fortress 2 on Halloween?
There are a lot of options, but given my physique (Or missing)
I decided to try my hand heavy.
The stylish dress itself is quite direct, but to be convincing, it requires two things that are unlikely to be ready: a mini-stylish dress
A gun and a very big bullet.
A simple Google search will also allow a lot of people to try the same thing, but they all seem to lack something. . . craftsmanship!
See I decided to do my best, like any good Instructure jun, to document the process for anyone who wants to do so.
Clothing can cost about $75 if you have all the tools but don\'t have any parts, it takes about 20-
25 hours for assembly
It\'s time consuming, of course, but it\'s totally worth it.
Before looking for the material, the first step is to take an hour or so to see all the best source images I can find and outline my design.
Even if you plan to write something similar as I have designed and I suggest, I find it very helpful to have a very good psychological understanding of the opponent\'s head problem before starting.
I won\'t lie to you, there are a lot of things to do to make this stylish dress, but the interesting things in life are rarely easy.
Accessories: 3 \"PVC pipe x 3 ft (approx)
1 PVC pipe x 12 with 1/4.
5 ft1 \"PVC tube x 10 ft (approx)
1/2 \"PVC tube x 5 ft (approx)
Month \"PVC pipe connector x 24\" month \"PVC coupler3\" PVC end cap x23 \"PVC flange1\" PVC extend1 \"PVC flange1/month\" 90 degree elbow PVC bend joint 31/2 \"PVC end cap x21/2\" end cap1 1/2 \"thick extruded polystyrene (EPS)
Foam1/8 \"thick 2\" wide steel x 12 inches5/16 \"screw Bar x 1 foot5/16\" handle nut x2 flat bulk steel screw x 6 plastic bucketfairly large)Metal plates (
Holes in ideal cases)
X4Round excess aluminum pipe 90 degree skinny leg elbow bend paper mache supply epoxy push rod type pipe cement all kinds of bolts, screws and nuts make these props nothing is particularly dangerous but it should be mentioned
First of all: read the instructions, especially the instructions on PVC pipe cement, when it says \"use in well ventilated areas\", it does not mean that the basement is very small.
I\'m not saying that I accidentally got high on the smoke from the pipe paint, but I\'m saying that I didn\'t think of using it outside until after the first time.
Second: Epoxy putty is delicious, but the taste is very bad.
Do not forget to wash your hands after use.
I\'m pretty sure it\'s not.
But if I hadn\'t died in a few days, we would have known for sure.
Third: If you are going to go through the PVC or EPS foam with a rotary cutting tool, please wear a respirator or mask.
You really don\'t want this in your lungs (
And the taste is not very good).
The base barrel consists of 5 Length 1 1/4 \"PVC pipe, one end is fixed by 4\" PVC pipe joint, and the other end is connected by 4 \"to 3\" PVC to a couple
While the in-game gun actually has six barrels and five, this is the only way I can get it to work with the parts limitations available in the real world.
As you can see in the picture, five 1 1/4 \"pipes are perfectly installed in one 4\" pipe joints and the next size is increased (a 6\" joiner)
There are six 1/4 pipes, too many extra rooms, and it gets bigger, and the cost is higher than what I am willing to deal.
The first reaction to seeing most people is \"Hey, you only have five Barrels\" and I\'m not too worried.
\"Either, so there should be no problem.
If you find a non in your own building
The cost of getting six barrels of work is too high, congrats you, but if you work here as I planned, you\'ll end up with a nice sidekick gun.
First cut 5 2 \'6 \"length of 1 1/4 PVC pipe.
Test fit with 4 \"pipe joints to ensure they fit well.
After removing the pipe connector, press it together with EPS foam fairly hard to mark it and cut out the resulting circle.
Put it into the pipe joint and place the cut pipe on it, push them into the foam with force for marking again.
Take out the foam and cut out the marked circle. Re-
Insert the cut pipe into the joint and put the newly cut EPS foam sheet into the gap to create a solid front as shown.
You now have the barrel and a complete flash suppression device.
Next, take the second 4 \"pipe joint and cut three rings from it, two rings 1/2 wide and one 1-
1 Ring 1/2 wide.
These will be the stable rings of the barrel, they don\'t play much of a structural role, which is handled by two end caps, but they are aesthetically important, so make sure they are clean.
As the barrel is still inserted into the joint with the EPS foam threads on the three newly cut rings, two thinner ring heads are inserted first and covered the entire assembly with a 4 \"to 3\" coupler.
Now put it outside or in a well ventilated place and put it all in place with cement.
Make sure you read the instructions on the cement first to ensure a good connection.
After the cement is dried, it has been cured under ideal conditions (
About two hours)
Cut the PVC pipe with a length of 3 \"and cement it to the 3\" end of the coupler.
Then cement the remaining end of the 3 \"lid to 3\" pipe.
3 \"The length of the pipe is quite subjective, I made my length around 2 feet, but I made this decision based on the overall height.
With the side of the barrel assembly on the floor, I want the back of the whole thing to be about under my arm, which is 49 \"for me \".
Depending on the height you want it to be relative to yourself, you may want to shorten or lengthen the 3 \"pipe, although you may also want to change the length of 1/4 barrels if you change too much, this will not look out of proportion.
Now, your bucket is basically complete.
You should cut the EPS foam to fill the gap between the barrel and the stabilizer ring, as we have already done for the flash suppression device, but, if you don\'t mind that it looks like there is a gap, you can do it later, if you want or don\'t want it at all.
Note for cutting EPS foam: I used a sharp knife and a jigsaw puzzle and the real tool to do it was a hot wire cutter, but I didn\'t and didn\'t want to buy/do it.
If you have a great one, it will be faster and easier to use EPS foam, not to mention less confusion.
You just need to cut it more carefully if you can\'t pass so you can be clean
Realizing that it will take more time and the biggest headache in the whole project.
I\'m not quite sure what to call this part of the gun, though in my mind, and in my conversation about it, it\'s always been my cartridge.
I think it\'s because it holds a huge ammo belt.
Anyway, it is not difficult to do this.
It all started with a bucket.
I used the biggest and cheapest plastic bucket I could find at a local hardware supermarket, however, if you happen to have one that you think is good enough, or find a little more but look better and feel free to use it.
The size I originally estimated was 1.
5ft in diameter and 2ft in length.
I found that the actual bucket could be 1.
5ft long, 1ft in diameter, a little smaller than expected, but I think it looks good.
As you can see, the extra EPS foam also supports the length.
The biggest problem with this is to cover up the fact that it\'s just a plastic bucket, a mini bucket
The barrel of the gun is just a pile of pipes, so a bunch of PVC pipes really don\'t need to be disguised.
However, this should not look like a bucket you dragged out of the doorman\'s closet.
The first step is to press the bottom of the barrel onto the EPS foam to mark and then cut off the resulting circle.
Stick the circle to the appropriate position at the bottom of the bucket (
I used a lot of wood glue and it looks solid, but be sure to press it in place and put a weight on it when it dries)
The sharp edges are then polished off to produce a round look.
Smooth transition from barrel to EPS foam using epoxy putty.
Next, drill through 1 \"flange\" that will pass through the 1/2 PVC pipe.
Remember that 1/2 \"is the inner diameter of the tube and the outer diameter on my body is more like 3/4 \".
Pass the 1/2 \"pipe through the hole on the flange and then place the screw on the end cap at one end.
Position the pipe so that the end cap looks like it is in the right position and mark the position where the pipe needs to be cut so that it will be 2 inch below the bottom of the barrel.
This will vary depending on the bucket used, so I can\'t give you an accurate measurement.
After cutting the 1/2 \"pipe into a suitable length, cut another pipe long enough that it will run all the way along the bottom of the barrel.
It\'s easier to shorten it than to cut a brand new piece, so be careful and make it longer.
Now press the 1 \"tube extender at the center of the EPS foam at the bottom of the barrel to mark it and use a sharp knife to cut the 1/2\" into the foam inside and outside the marking ring.
Dig out the ring and make sure the extender is snug inside.
Cement the flange into the 1 \"tube extender.
Find the place where the scrap cartridge slot should go on the side of the barrel.
It should point more or less straight down, ideally a little higher than the middle of the bucket when you see the head.
Cut a hole that is comfortable enough to accept anything you find used in the scrap cartridge slot and insert it now.
To produce surfaces that are smoother and easier to paint, you need to apply something on the EPS foam (
This will also protect it from paint).
You also need to further cover up the fact that it is a bucket by covering up some of the more obvious barrels --like features.
You can kill two birds with a stone.
The paper Maher recipes are very simple and have a lot on the instructions, but they are basically made up of a portion of flour to two portions of water and a healthy dose of salt.
Mix it together and dip some thin torn notes in it (
Good news paper)
No matter what you are reporting, stick to it.
What you have to do with your bucket depends on what you find to use, but you can get some ideas from the picture below.
To cover up the fact that the back of the barrel is like this. . . well. . .
The process at the back and front of the bucket is very similar.
Push the back of the barrel into the EPS foam to mark the profile, cut along the profile and glue it in place.
To protect it from paint and add a smoother surface, I also covered it with roll paper.
The last major component needed for the cartridge is a large box hanging on the bottom because there is no better term.
This is where the pipe that runs along the bottom of the cartridge will be connected because it is a decorative part and does not require a structure, so I decided to make it with more EPS foam.
You can also use some type of electric wall box, but they are so expensive for such a small piece that most people rarely see a few pieces of foam to approximate my own.
Take two grids EPSfoam, roughly equal in size, about 1/4 to 1/3 of the width of your cartridge.
Stick them together so they form a double high box and carefully draw a small curve in the middle of the bottom of EPSfoam.
This will help the foam to be more flush on your bucket.
Stick the box in the middle of the bottom of the cartridge.
Ideally, it should be as close as possible to the back of the barrel, but due to the limitations of the barrel, I have to use it in line with the scrap cartridge tank.
Finally, to help it attach better and to protect the foam from the final painting, cover it with paper.
When everything is dried very carefully, drill a 7/8 hole in the place where the pipe meets the box.
The hole only needs to go roughly halfway through the box itself, and the pipe should be cut to match this length before sticking in place (post painting).
If you take a closer look at the good source image of the Heavy mini-
Gun, you will see the front handle assembly directly on the barrel set to the three-sided metal shape that the barrel actually hangs on the shaft, and you can adjust the angle it hangs if you want.
This is also the connection point between the front connection point of the cartridge and the rear handle (
Where is the trigger)connects.
So it\'s important.
Other attempts I \'ve seen are usually made of wood and look like 3/4 plywood, but I think it looks a bit silly.
Unfortunately I have neither the equipment for any form of serious metal manufacturing or welding nor the expertise, so I am concerned that I cannot manage it the way I want it to be, but then I found some interesting bits lurking in the forgotten bin of my hardware supermarket and I came up with a plan.
I think they are called wood joints or wood joints to repair something like brackets, they should be somewhere near the hinges and the angle iron, but if you can\'t find them, ask someone else.
They may not know the name, but if you can describe exactly what you want (
Metal plate with holes)
They will point you in a few directions and you will eventually find gold.
There are 5 and 7 long varieties in the store I went to, and 5 are about $.
45 and 7 \"is about $.
59 so I thought about what was squandered on four 7 \"plates.
After all, I can always trim them down.
I also picked up some bolts and nuts and fixed them all together, I think the size of the bolts is 6-
But depending on the size of the hole of anything you find to use, you may need something different.
Just make sure they get through the holes before you buy them.
The first step is to bend the two wood joints.
When bending a 7 \"board is not enough to go through the top of the gun completely, I have to tie the two boards together.
I put the plate on a pair so I can see the second row of holes and bend it to a 90 degree angle.
After the two plates were bent, I fixed them firmly together with four bolts.
Next, install another wooden bolt on each side of the curved plate to form a very square letter C.
Now put the hanger aside and go back to the gun.
You need to drill a 5/16 hole in 4 parts of the 4 to 3 PVC adapter.
Be very careful and it will go straight through as this is what the hanger is going to be connected.
I couldn\'t find a 5/16 drill bit when I did, although I did find a very long 1/4 drill.
Comparing the size of the drill bit to the 5/16 threaded rod, I think it will work, the thread will bite into the hole, but the hole should be large enough to allow the main body of the rod to pass through without any problem. I was right. . .
But it is also very difficult to get the rod through this hole.
I spent about 45 minutes working very hard with a sub-handle and cordless electric drill, forcing the rod to pass all the time.
However, it is now very strong there and will never go anywhere again.
It may not be a bad idea to do this like me, but just realize that if you decide to do a lot of work, you will do a lot of work, even though in the end you will get a safer axle.
Now, lean the hanger against the gun and keep it roughly in the right position to find where it needs to be fixed.
I chose the third hole from the hole set at the bottom as my guide, but it\'s subjective where you put it, just put it where you think it looks right.
I used an existing small hole as a guide hole, drilled two 1/4 holes and dug them to the right size.
Next, before sliding the hook over the rod, twist a 5/16 \"nut to both sides of the 5/16\" rod.
Adjust the hook to center it and then move the nuts so that they are close to the inner edges on both sides of the hook.
Mark a point of about half an inch from the hanger on both sides of the rod and cut it there.
Then place a handle nut on both sides of the bar and tighten it.
You now have a full, fully connected hanger!
Next is the handle.
I did more of mine with 1/2 \"PVC pipe and two 1/2\" 90 degree elbows.
Cut a 1/2 PVC pipe into length, which is both comfortable and short enough for your hand to not extend beyond the width of the hanger.
Then measure the distance you want the handle itself to be on the hanger board and cut two PVC pipes with a length of 1/2.
Now, put two 1/2 end caps and drill holes through their bottom and pass through the top of the hanger where the handle is in contact.
Pass the bolt up through the plate and end cap, and distribute the load throughout the cover using a suitable size washer, tighten it with a nut.
Cement all the joints in the handle and the handle now attached to the end cap on the hanger.
I personally don\'t believe the cement can withstand the full weight of all this, so I\'m still drilling holes in the handle to increase stability.
My main concern is the vertical connection, so I installed a bolt on the bottom of each end cap and pipe and each 90 degree elbow.
This is optional, however, and the cement may be enough to accommodate it on its own.
Now, the mini gun can be assembled with only its rear handle.
Putting it together is actually simpler than it sounds.
The cartridge and barrel only need to be bolted together.
Starting with cutting 1/8 of the steel, I would say about 6 inch.
Drill a 5/16 hole near one end (
Yes I will buy a bit for this, I ended up buying a bit and it\'s not fun to dig a 1/4 \"hole to 5/16\" on the steel plate)
And place it on the right side of the 5/16 threaded rod connected to the handle assembly.
Fix it in place and place the cartridge in the position you want.
Keep in mind that at least some of these need to be straight below the middle of the bucket (
Rear connection point for rear handle)
It needs to be far enough to make the third connection point between the barrel assembly and the ammo barrel, however, it should still deviate slightly from the center on the right side of the barrel assembly.
The description is a bit awkward, but my building picture and the source picture you should look at hopefully help it make more sense.
Mark a piece of steel on the cartridge where it intersect and use dremel to cut a slot for steel.
Slide the barrel down the steel until there is a proper distance from the barrel assembly, which is also quite subjective, but my barrel assembly is about 1/2 below.
Mark the point where the steel meets the barrel, then drill holes on both sides, put the steel back into the barrel, and install the bolts through two holes to fix the barrel in place.
Now cut the second piece of steel, measured from the left side of the 5/16 Rebar bar to the left side of the cartridge.
Drill a 5/16 hole near one end of the cutting piece and screw it onto the rod, you need to bend the steel to make it in contact with the side of the cartridge.
It\'s not as hard as it sounds, just clip it on a pair above the hole you drill and pull it until it bends to a right angle.
You need to take it out and check it out several times to get the right angle.
When it is bent at right angles, fix it on the 5/16 threaded rod and drill two holes on the other end and cartridge, and then fix it in place.
Two connection points down, one go!
The third connection takes a little more time than just cutting some metal.
First put 3 \"PVC end caps and 3\" PVC flanges loosely together and install them between the barrel assembly and the cartridge.
In my case, in order for them to lie together smoothly, I had to cut off a bit of the reinforcing ring at the top of the cartridge.
Mark the point at which the end cap intersects the cartridge and barrel, and then cross the barrel and end cap before connecting them together.
The end head fixed with the bolt goes through it, and then the barrel is screwed in place with a wooden screw.
One deviation that might make things easier here is that if you didn\'t cement 3 \"PVC caps at the end of the barrel assembly before, then you could bolt both sides, and will not be screwed in place.
I should probably think about it afterwards.
The rear handle of the gun needs to be connected in two places: the hanging assembly on the main barrel and the rear of the ammunition barrel.
This will provide you with four total connection points between the barrel and the cartridge to get a very stable gun.
For this step, I used some random, pre-
I happen to find curved, black round hollow metal tubes in the \"cheap barn\" behind my local hardware/random surplus store.
If you haven\'t had enough luck yet, or can\'t find the right place, you can always recycle the tubes that make up the body of the old lawn chair, or turn to PVC.
In fact, this step is very simple.
You just need to measure the length you need, cut the pipe and press one end flat with a vise.
At the other end, you drill holes on the side of the cartridge and the tubing itself, and then fix them all in place. There you go!
Among the many heavy outfits I \'ve seen online, the band uses hilarious oversized bullets (
They look like the shell of a grenade launcher)
Either completely ignored, or just re-
The actual band full of rifle shells.
I think it\'s not only an important part of clothing, but it\'s also crucial for cartoons that are almost ironic.
Then, the only choice is to do it yourself.
Many parts of the process are difficult, whether because they are physically difficult, such as putting 5/16 \"rods through 1/4\" holes, or mentally difficult, because they basically solve every part of the problem.
However, bullets are the only part that really gets boring.
In the game, heavy people wear a band, both on the front and back, packed with these bullets.
I estimate they are about 1 \"wide\" and 6 \"long in size relative to me.
When it comes to actually making them, I changed this estimate to about 4 \"long because the full six look weird.
I measured myself for bandoleer and estimated that each bullet was 1 \"wide and I found that it would take about 40 before and after to fill it up.
However, I became lazy in the middle, and for my own sanity and time, I decided to just fill the front of the band, which took 24 rounds.
I would suggest that you take this into account, as it is very uncomfortable to have your back covered with PVC pipe bullets while sitting down, and if you only cover the front, it will be much easier to walk around in clothing.
With this (
Make changes as per your own needs as you may need more or less depending on your bandwidth size and desire to keep the real look and feel)
We start: cut the length of the 2 1/2 \"1\" PVC pipe you need to make the bullet.
Press these pieces on the EPS foam for marking and cut a square around each marked circle.
Cut into the foam inside the marked circle with a knife between 1/2 \"and 1/4\", then shave off the foam of about 1/4 to 1/2, leaving a cylinder of foam, these foam should be snug inside 1 \"PVC pipe.
Put the foam and pipe together and set the prototype
Bullet foam sideways.
Along the side of the tube, go through the foam and move down with a sharp knife, which should leave you a tube with a piece of EPS foam about octagonal sticking out of it.
Use fine sand sandpaper to round the foam and add a roughly circular profile to the top to produce the look of the bullet that extends out of the shell.
Paste the foam onto the PVC pipe using epoxy putty.
At this point you need to think about how to seal the foam so you can paint it.
EPS foam will dissolve when painting.
My first thought was to dip the bullet into the plaster, but the EPS foam also seemed to melt a little under the plaster, leaving a thin layer of air between the plaster and the foam, this proved to be very subtle.
This works, but it is very fragile and will be destroyed if someone touches them roughly. . .
Or what did they meet? . .
Or you look too good.
My second idea is to use a paper mache, which seems to work better.
Two layers of paper should be durable enough, but more (time allowing)
Will only make it stronger.
You also need to form the bottom of the bullet, initially I repeated the same process as the bullet, but these melted while painting (
How did I initially find that EPS foam had a problem with painting)
I really don\'t want to recreate them.
So I covered the bottom with paper too.
You have it, your own TF2 ammo dump.
As you can see from the photos, the bullets are not uniform at all and sometimes look a bit funny.
I plan to hide the worst looking part in the band that isn\'t quite noticed, but honestly, after making it for a while, you don\'t care anymore.
Numbness and repetition of the mind.
You can make a mold carefully and perfectly and then cast all your bullets with it, however, this supply can be a bit expensive, which can be more time consuming than doing so.
It depends on you, though.
Tedious or more costly, lazy or even. Ah, painting.
We\'re almost over!
The color scheme is quite simple, black, gray and dirty white.
The bullets are gray and yellow. That\'s that.
Do you want more? Well, okay.
The whole barrel and handle assembly should be black.
The rear half of the cartridge and waste cartridge chute should also be black.
The first half of the cartridge should be dirty white, and the fastening point of the cartridge support tube should be gray.
The tube itself should be black.
On top of that, my only other suggestion is that it would be a good idea to fill so many plastics with some kind of paint specifically designed to adhere to the plastic.
It will make your life easier and it will also make the paint work look better.
After the rough painting is finished, if you feel so inclined, some specific details may be added.
There is a black line (
Probably metal seams)
It runs along the side of the cartridge with five big head steel screws on it.
While this detail is unnecessary, it may be useful to increase the illusion of heavy life.
The rest of the costume is relatively simple. Black army-
Ish boots, green trousers, black belt under the belly (
If you are a slimmer person than I am, or a pillow on your shirt)
Depending on which team you want to be, a red or blue shirt, a green vest.
Vest is a hard thing to buy, luckily I have friends who can sew, I made mine for me, but, if you are not so lucky, A thin wool jumper of the right color can be cut and processed.
If you really want to go all out and you know you want to do that, you can add the right team logo to your arm.
For heavy objects, they should move around the midpoint of each sleeve.
You can manage this problem by looking for some inkjet to fabric transfer paper for yourself, printing images (
Mirror according to package description)
Then iron it on your arm.
I have: High resolution for the source image.
Red logo, high resolution. blue logo.
You might want to add some extra details to really get the look done: Square-
Black bags, fingerless black gloves and (highlighted on the left side of the belt (
If you really want to go all out)
Russian-style bomber cap with Soviet Army badge on the front.
The final meeting!
Tie everything together like I\'m sure you did it a few times before painting, put on the costume and have a good time.
The bonus is to carry a sandwich with you and occasionally take a bite from inside and stand still and say \"om nom \".
If you do, watch out for the Scouts.
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