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huge addressable rgb led (ceiling) panel

by:Max Apparel     2020-08-20
Hello!
Welcome to my instructions on how to make a huge addressable led panel, I mean \"very big\" when I say \"huge \".
Just over 2 panels.
The size of 5x1 m, in other terms, is 8\'4 \"x 3\' 4 \".
The panel is built in multiple days, but if you really want to finish it, it\'s doable to build it in one day.
The panel has 846 separate segments and 2538 RGB LEDs.
With so much light, the panel needs a lot of power, and the led needs two large power supplies (
More information later).
Last but not least, panels are controlled by HC
And H806SB wifi controller.
In this note I will tell you my group and you are absolutely welcome to follow my exact instructions.
But I will also add information for changes, so you have something to do if you want your changes to be different.
Before we start, I would like to share my expected goals for this project.
I want to make a large led panel light enough to hang on the ceiling and change the ceiling as little as possible.
Also, I want to use up as much material as possible that I have laid around the house.
Finally, I want to make this project as simple and clear as possible!
Above you can see what the panel looks like, the video doesn\'t have any sound for some reason, but it doesn\'t have much sound anyway.
Before we start buying materials and building panels, you have to ask yourself what you want your panels to look like: large/small, type of light diffusion (or none at all)
, Led type, controller type and material that disconnects the frame.
Big/small: both have its advantages and disadvantages.
A small panel can be moved and stored easily, and it does not use so much power and material (
So it will be cheaper in the long term and in the short term).
The downside of a small panel is the lack of light, and of course not the impression of a huge panel!
Type of light diffusion: As you can see, my panel is covered with translucent plastic, which results in a diffusion effect.
I used an plexiglass/plexiglass sheet that looked opaque after treatment, but it did let the light through.
Other options include no paper at all and clear plexiglass.
For the other panel I made, I used transparent plexiglass and applied it with the silicone cauldron I pushed out with the paint roller.
I do not recommend the use of glass.
Led type: There are a lot of led outside.
For your convenience, I recommend that you only use the WS2811 addressable led light strip.
However, even in the WS2811 led light strip, there are a large number of different kinds of light strips with 3 LEDs per chip (
So the 3 LEDs are the same)
30, 60, 90 or even 120 led per meter.
For my panel, I use 3 LEDs per chip, 60 LEDs per meter (
20 addressable segments per meter).
In order to determine the number of bars you need, you need to decide the size first, then you need to decide how many lines you want, and finally you need to decide how much space between the bars you want.
I have 18 rows 5 cm apart (
So total 95 cm)
Plus the beam forming the side (2x2. 5 cm)
Controller type: like there are many bars, there are many controllers as well.
Most importantly, you have chosen a controller for addressable led instead of a controller for monochrome led, and you also need to select a controller that supports WS2811 led (The luckiest thing is.
Of course, you need to decide what you want from your controller, I want to play with my own program, use my phone control panel, and a remote to play pre-configured programs
I couldn\'t get this from one controller, so I used two controllers.
Material for making the frame: this is an issue of cost and durability and weight.
As long as the sides are strong, the thin wood works fine as the back.
You can use a hard board, but reinforce the back with a beam to prevent sagging.
I used 4 separate thin boards (
Forget the wood)
But it is light and not drooping.
I suggest that you use a large sheet instead of a separate sheet to keep the steel bars and make things unnecessarily complicated.
The reason I went to buy a separate panel was because I had no way to buy a large panel from the store and the beams I had already bought at home.
I used 2,5x5 cm beams for beams and sides, but you are free to choose whatever you want to use.
As I have already mentioned, I use this because I already have it.
Panel cost: this panel is about 300 euros.
But this quantity will vary depending on the material, size and electronics you choose.
* See step \"Diffusion Group\" for more information, now your design is on paper and it\'s time to go shopping! -
According to the size of the panel, the board/board-
Wood support beam (
As flat as possible without sagging)
, Can also be based on the size of the panel.
If you choose to use a separate panel, make sure each seam is supported.
If you choose a complete piece of paper, make a layout that works best to prevent sagging. -Screws-Wood glue-
WS2811 addressable led, which they sell every 5 m on eBay.
Make sure you have enough design bars!
Be sure to buy the right one.
As I mentioned earlier, there are many types of WS2811.
You want a 12v strap. Controller(s)
, For more information about the controller in the previous step.
You want a 12v controller
This is based on the number of your led.
The rated power per belt is 72 w/5 m, which means that for my panel I need less than 650 w at 12 v.
Fortunately, this is not the case (by far).
After measuring the power used by the strip in the full white state, I concluded that it would be OK with a power of 480 Watts.
So for your panel, you will be very good to use the rule that requires 10 watts per meter of led.
To convert Watts to amps, you simply divide the total wattage used by 12 (the voltage).
What you want is a 12v power supply. -220v wires (16 gauge)-
Chain and hook of hanging panel (optional)-
Plug and cable (220 v)
I used mine from old power tools)-
Double sided tape-
White tape (
Or you can paint.
I used tape because it was easy)-
Diffusion plate (
Optional, see previous step for more information)-
Plastic corner profiles (
Cover the screws in the diffuser)+ adhesive-
12V 1A power supply (optional)*-
Optical trigger relay circuit/device (optional)
* All parts can be purchased from hardware store (
Wood, diffuser, wires, tape, glue, screws, plastic profiles, hooks and chains)or eBay (
WS2811, controller, power supply, cables and wires).
If you live in the Netherlands, this is a good site to order a diffusion sheet: my panel I use 4 separate panels but if you can take it home I would recommend using a full panel
The one I bought is 45 metres (9 strips)
WS2811 addressable led (per 3 led\'s)
There are a total of 60 LEDs per meter.
I used 2 controllers: a wifi controller with a homemade pattern (HC-008)
And a controller with pre-
Programming mode with remote control (H806SB).
I set the power supply for 2x5a (
To prevent excessive congestion of wires on a power supply)
But I may switch to 2 x15a power supply soon as I can use 20 a in another project.
I used tape instead of paint for convenience and it looked good.
Last but not least, I used 2.
The treated plexiglass of 5x1 M, when there is no light but is actually translucent, it produces an opaque effect.
The tools used for this project include, but are not limited to, hand-held drill bits, soldering iron, box knives, glue clips, Mao-
Saw and drill arm, including screwed-in accessories, drill bit and sink bit.
Now that we have all the components we started building!
If you have a solid board that is exactly the size you want, you don\'t have to make a frame first and screw it to the board.
Instead, you can attach loose parts of the frame to the board.
This helps to avoid placing the screws on the side of the frame, which can be problematic when you want to insert the hooks into the frame. Firstly.
See a frame in which the external dimensions (
Length of the outside)
The exact size of your motherboard is (or boards)
So when you install the board on the board, the frame does not stretch out and vice versa.
You can connect the corner by passing the screw through the side (
Also wood glue).
You can see that my frame is not 4 but 6 because my wooden beam is not long enough.
This is not a disaster if you are, but your first choice is a frame of 4 blocks.
With a piece of wood at right angles (
Or other right angle things)
Make sure your corner is 90 degrees.
After the frame is made, you can put it on a flat surface.
And start connecting the board.
Be sure to temporarily support the board in the middle to prevent the board from sagging.
To connect the board at the same interval, use the object (
Like paint spray cans)
Or tape measure.
Wood glue is also used here!
Last board (s)
Attached to your frame, you can install the bracket (cross)beams.
If you select the panel method, you will need to support all seams.
First, install the beam through the panel on the frame (
So the panel is clipped).
After all beams are connected, Flip carefully and attach the panel to the beams (
From \"inside \").
The wood glue is optional here, I have not used it, but if you want all the screw holes to have to be drilled in advance, especially the screw holes at the end of the beam (
This is to prevent the splitting of woodi, if you don\'t work at the last break of the panel, you think it might be a hassle to move it, I suggest you move it now.
You can give your panel an end to your preference.
I am a person who is usually very patient, but I hate waiting for the paint to dry when I have time to deal with my project.
So I decided to cover the sides with tape instead of drawing them.
In any case, it will not be obvious to both sides.
Also, the type of wood I use is very rough, so it will show as why not even.
If you are more patient than I am and have a frame that is done smoothly, I would definitely recommend that you draw the sides of the frame.
There won\'t be much to do with the top as this will be the face (
Depending on your choice, you can pull against the wall or ceiling.
If you choose to paint your frame, you need to apply a primer first (
The color of the dark finish is dark and the light finish is white)
Then your last coat of paint.
Using water-based paint, the drying speed is faster and non-toxic.
Also, if you choose a non-diffuse plastic layer, I would definitely recommend painting inside the frame.
In other cases, you don\'t see the difference, maybe it will have an impact for the purpose of reflection (
Good white reflection)
Now, we can start installing electronics.
First of all, look carefully at these bars and you will see an arrow.
This is the flow direction of the data in the bar, and the data flows only in the direction of the Arrow, not the opposite.
This means you have to go down the panel \"snake.
Basically, the data drops on the first strip, and at the end, it starts on the next strip (At the same end)
After you come back, go down and wait.
In your design phase, you determine the number of bars and the spacing between them.
Before you start pasting them randomly, draw some lines to help you guide yourself while the sticker strips are in place so they have (close to)
The uniform distance between them.
There is a self-adhesive layer on the back of each strip, stripping the paper to reveal the adhesive layer.
You can put the first line down in your first line and then the second walk the other way.
Continue to do so until they all join the board.
Bars need power every 5 m, in my case it\'s as easy as my bars (approximately)2.
The board is 5 metres long.
So I need to power each other line (
18 lines, 9 positive and negative connections).
Once you have decided where you need power, drill two small holes in all of these points (
Wires need to go through holes).
If you don\'t use a bar as long as I do, you can calculate how many lines a led bar equals.
If you end up somewhere in the middle of a strap, just wrap it around the nearest side and you can have all the wires.
This method keeps all the wires on the same side.
Before we start the wiring process, it is important to know that you should not go (exactly)
In addition to my instructions, there are photos.
The images were made by me during the build, but then I found a simpler/more efficient way to connect the panels.
However, the picture is basically accurate.
Wiring diagram should be provided upon request.
If a smaller number of led light strips or different power supplies are used, your design may be slightly different.
First, connect all the data pins.
So, at the end of each strip with an arrow, weld the wires on that data pin to the next strip.
Go back to the beginning and do the same (
See the first picture).
After the data is connected to all the bars, you will want to drill an extra hole at the beginning and pass the data line through that hole (
Of course, in the process of connecting.
The best thing you can do next is decide where the power supply you want, stick these on the back with double sided tape (
I chose the tape and you can tie them up as well.
If your panels are upright, please bolt them on).
Now, through all the remaining holes you made in the last step, send a positive and negative wire into, attach them to the led strip and the positive and negative poles (accordingly)
Voltage rail of power supply.
Next, connect the controller to the power supply.
All you need to do is connect the data cable of the first led light strip to the controller.
If you have multiple controllers, you need to have a switch on the data line (
More information later).
This step is completely optional and I put this step in so your panel won\'t waste a lot of electricity.
I think this is the beneficiary because I used more than 30 watts when my panel was closed after a quick measurement (
Power supply is still running).
This additional step will solve the problem.
As they said, there is a way to Rome.
Fortunately, not all roads lead to Rome, or there will be a lot of roads, but there are multiple ways to implement an electronic switch to turn the power on when the controller is turned off.
Note that not all controllers use this method, for example, my WiFi controller does not turn off the switch, so it is always on.
It is important that your controller has an indicator light (
Or other types of light)
It will only send out when it is powered on.
The idea is to power the controller with only one small power supply.
When the controller is turned on, the glowing reactive power relay is touched to turn on the power supply and then all electronic devices are turned on.
In this way, there is little waste of power when the panel is \"off.
By placing the photo resistor above the led display (
It lights up when the controller is on)
The electronic device is only turned on when the controller is turned on.
Other ideas to close the panel are simple on/off switches, clap hands to activate the switch, or use a wall switch if the panel is under the light fixture.
If you haven\'t decided which type of panel to use and want you to have it, you can do it easily with a silicone cauldron.
If you apply the silicone caulking agent to an organic glass plate and roll it out with a standard foam paint roller, it will have a good effect.
Multi-layer applications for more diffusion (
Wait until the first floor is dry! ).
Be careful to do this in a clean space, so there is nothing in the transparent caulking, otherwise it will appear when you put the light under it.
I added a picture of another panel to show the effect.
Now is the time to connect the diffuser.
Place the panel on the frame and clip it on the frame with a glue clip.
Mark points so you know where to drill, once marked as pre-
Drill holes for screws. After pre-
You also need to countersink when drilling so your sheets don\'t crack.
Now put the screws in all the holes and attach the panel permanently to the frame.
As the last touch, the corner outlines are seen, so they intersect each other at the angle of 45 degrees.
Apply the adhesive to the corner and attach it to the side of the panel to cover the screws on the front panel.
My controller uses Ledbuild.
But I don\'t recommend it.
If you have a free choice in the led controller, consider the software for the panel.
I have a great experience with Lededit, but there are a lot of small programs to play with and design.
There are plenty of controllers on the market, from music controllers to wireless controllers on the Internet.
Choose one controller according to your needs, up to two.
The more controllers you have, the more complex (and expensive! )the panel gets.
That said, it\'s not impossible, it\'s just not recommended.
This is just a way to build the panels, there are more panels, and I believe there are better ones.
If you have anything to add or correct, please leave a comment and I will reply to you when I have time.
If you like this guide, please vote for me in the competition I am attending!
Thank you for your support.
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