elsa/frozen dress

by:Max Apparel     2020-07-23
Many other little girls, I\'m sure (
Maybe almost equal. so-little girls)
My daughter wants to be Elsa on Halloween.
I looked carefully at the clothes in the store and became more and more disappointed.
These are plain princess dresses in light blue, silver and white with Elsa buttons on them.
So I turned to Etsy and the rest of the area, but I turned again. . . disappointed.
I want some movies. accurate (
Within a reasonable range, because the fabric of Elsa\'s clothes seems to be something that is not available anywhere on Earth at the moment. )
I can\'t find movie
No matter how hard I try, it\'s accurate. So. . .
I decided to film my daughter.
Accurate Elsa clothing (minus the slit. )
Maybe with spandex so she can wear and wear it herself. . .
Then sleep inside like she likes Halloween costumes. Oh!
There is a detachable cloak so she can get stepped on without worrying about it!
The plan was made, and the rest was implemented.
There is certainly no need for a small supply for this project, nor for a weak heart or budget --wary.
The number of fabrics I use will * not * the number of fabrics or lines you will use.
This will vary depending on the size of the person suitable for the dress.
Please figure this part out accordingly, this is the use of fake clothing fabrics.
For the custom clothing form I use: for the clothing model: for the clothing: You also need: the cloak is a separate tutorial, otherwise, this Instructure will be up to 4 years, not to mention it can also be an optional part.
I think the tape costume form is the best and most interesting part of the whole thing.
This part is optional, but it does help me to make sure the dress fits my daughter.
She has an unquestionable tendency to twist, and she always has to do things like sleeping or going to school.
Also, I can go straight through the fake daughter and poke the pin on the dress without making the fake daughter scream.
I can\'t seem to be able to do this with my real daughter.
First of all, you need two people to do it.
The person who made the model, and the person who will record it.
The person who was recorded should be placed on the garbage bag (
Or they don\'t want a long shirt anymore. )
Please note that this will become unbearable heat during recording.
Tape can\'t breathe.
The model must also remain very, very static and stand very, very straight for about an hour.
After putting on the garbage bag, start recording.
If the person concerned has any chest definition, place two pieces of tape in the chest in X shape.
Otherwise, just start laying the tape strip on the torso and after stripping the body, lay the tape strip.
Be sure to shape the holes in the arms and neck.
Once the previous operation is completed, continue to do the same for the back.
I decided to wear 3-
4 layers to make sure it stays very strong.
If you want, it doesn\'t hurt to make an arm model.
No need, but the fitting sleeves are good.
Then, when all this is done, the model removes them from the inside while cursing your presence, but be careful.
They don\'t like it when you cut it.
Once the tape form is removed, please use more tape to close the form again.
Tape the holes in the arms and neck and fill the entire table with cotton stuffing, paper or whatever you can find.
Be careful not to overfill and also make sure the shape keeps the shape and size of the wearer.
Then simply put the bottom opening and ta-da!
You have a custom costume form that fits the exact size of the model.
It\'s time to start drafting your clothes.
Take your bias tape and start to put it on the skirt and nail it in place.
The goal is to mark the shape of the garment, mainly the top.
This is for the shape of the sweetheart on the corset, neckline, arm holes, seams, back, waist, etc.
This pattern may vary depending on your personal taste and preferences.
You can choose the Elsa boat neck neckline or you can close it around your neck.
You can adjust the shape of your loved one, or the position down the neckline, the position of the corset, and so on.
Once you have your shape the way you want it, start nailing fake fabric to your skirt to make sure the fabric is smooth and flat.
When you nail a part of the garment together, mark the shape on the fake fabric and move to another part.
For the sleeves, I chose to find the sleeve pattern elsewhere.
I have never made a sleeve in my life.
In fact, I haven\'t sewed anything more complicated than my pajamas before, not to mention the funky weird sleeves, so I did my best.
The sleeves are really weird and the shape is hard to figure out for yourself.
It\'s not shameful if you\'re not familiar and sometimes it\'s better to just get a little help.
Continue to cover and mark the fabric to make the pattern.
Cut it off as soon as you\'re satisfied and leave a half inch seam allowance.
If you want to save time, or just can\'t manage to fold and ventilate, another option is to find the pattern for long-sleeved leotard similar to the neckline (for the top)and a full-length skirt.
Then, it\'s a simple question to make your work from these and use a pencil in any adjustments.
The sheer tops and sleeves of the Elsa require a pattern, and the bodice/skirt combination requires a pattern.
If you can print out the pages, cut them off and stick them together, pre-
The pattern you bought is useful to you.
You then lay the patterns on the fabric, fix them in place, track them, and cut them out with a 1/2 seam allowance.
Follow the instructions for the fabric contained in the cut pattern.
Now you need to sew this fake dress together to make sure it fits well with the recipient.
Place the right side of the pattern together, fix it in place along the seam line, and start sewing along the seam line.
I used a short, thin zig-
The zag needle of this whole dress.
For instructions on how to use the sewing machine, I recommend using this link.
This is a good review for me: I suggest making sure to leave enough space for the wearer to twist the stylish dress.
I ended up without a seam on one side of the corset and no seam on the shoulders.
When she was wearing the dress, I nailed them in the right place.
Don\'t worry if you don\'t know how to sew your sleeves.
Neither did I, and had to go to Google.
I found this tutorial very helpful.
I can try to explain it, but I don\'t have enough experience to explain it.
Fake clothes should fit well at this point.
It may be a little big in some places and a little small in other places.
Adjust with more direct sales and then use a pen (
Fabric, sand or other)
Mark the changes you need to make.
Then simply rinse and repeat until you get the clothes you want.
Waste of junk fabric is better than waste of good, expensive fabric.
Congrats, you now have your costume pattern when it fits your liking!
Now you will feel like you are actually making progress, starting with the clothing itself. . .
After taking the fake clothes apart
The formation of this dress begins with the lining.
Fold the fabric half vertically.
You will want to make sure that the maximum stretch of the fabric is horizontal.
As long as you give the fabric a few pulls in different directions, you can find the maximum amount of stretching.
This is the horizontal direction of clothing.
Fold the fabric in the direction of the minimum amount of stretch.
You don\'t need a lot of vertical giving, but anyone who once gobbled up on Halloween candy can tell you that there must be a level of forgiveness in the costume.
Nail your pattern piece to the fabric along the folds (
Folding creates a mirror image and avoids the fact that you have to crop it or draw it twice. )
This pattern should be the pattern of the bodice/skirt combination, including the front and back.
Use a variety of pens, track your patterns, then cut them down and leave a 1/2 space around it as a seam allowance. Un-
Fix the pattern piece down, start to arrange the fabric, the right side together, and fix it in place along the seam line.
Then, use the same saw stitch on your machine and stitch along the seam line.
Flatten the seam with an iron.
Make sure that the hot setting is suitable for the fabric ta you use-da!
You have finished the lining.
At this point I made another model with some of my extra fabric
But this is not a requirement.
It\'s just to make sure I don\'t mess up my measurement changes anywhere.
This sequin fabric instilled a terrible fear in me, but only because it was $20/yard.
Its actual sewing is not bad at all.
Repeat the same process as before with the liner, give the fabric several stretches to determine the maximum horizontal stretch and fold vertically, with the sequins side folded in half.
Fix the pattern block in the appropriate position along the folds and start tracking the pattern.
Cut off your pattern (
This is exactly the same pattern as the lining)
, Leave a 1/2 seam allowance, and then sew along the seam line with the same saw-like stitching.
Sewing sequins stretch fabric is a daunting task, but it\'s not too bad if you follow some basic guidelines.
Walk slowly and slowly to make sure the guide fabric is straight.
You can trim off any excess sequins if you want.
It doesn\'t matter if you keep the fabric comfortable, but don\'t pull it.
It will start bunching and produce unstable seams.
Patience in Sequin stretch fabric is essential.
Be forewarner: cutting the sequins fabric will cause sequins to Be found everywhere in a few weeks.
However, unlike the flash, you only need a vacuum and the problem is solved.
The top of this dress is the most difficult part of sewing, so I will divide it into two steps.
Not because of shape (
There\'s nothing to sneeze on the sleeves.
But because the fabric I choose is very hard to sew and requires a huge learning curve.
I highly recommend using bits of pure, resilient monsters to learn the best way to sew it on your machine.
Otherwise, when the machine chew your job and spit it out, you will have to make a brand new top from scratch. . .
This may or may not have happened to me.
The preparations at the top are exactly the same as the rest, so at this point the part should be familiar, although the pattern part will vary: the top front, the back top and two sleeves.
Fold half according to the maximum amount of stretch, cut the drawing case along the fold, track, with 1/2 seam allowance, nail the pieces together along the seam line, and contact on the right side.
All four parts at the top can be cut along the fold, which makes the whole process easier.
The next part is where it starts to get tricky.
You will want a very small, very short saw stitch.
First sew the seam between the shoulder and the neck opening.
This should give you an almost
Something like top, or something like dickie.
You will then insert the elastic ribbon into the neck opening.
To do this, you will start laying Elasticity along the neck holes on the \"wrong\" side of the fabric, fixed in place as you go.
This may require a lot of pins and patience.
Continue to put the elastic seam in place and then remove the pin.
Take the 1/2 joint allowance, fold it over the elasticity, and fix it in place while walking.
You may find that you need to do some cutting along the curve to allow the fabric to fold in the way it should.
Sew this in the proper position and then open the neck.
It should be safe, elastic and perfect to get the head through.
Next, we will continue to sew the sleeves in place and insert them.
The second stage of the top is related to the sleeves and side seams.
First, finish the end of the sleeve near the wrist.
I sewed my saw and sewed a side of a roll.
To do this, fold the allowance in half until it meets the seam line.
Adjust your machine so zig zag will enter the fabric on your left but will miss or cover the fabric on the left.
This will cause the fabric to be stuffed into the stitching and form a neat binding edge.
Roll when you go, there is no need for pins.
Anyway, they just got in the way.
Make sure the work is slow and test the curling edge on the discarded fabric until you are comfortable.
This grinding edge is particularly effective for pure, refined P. I. T. A.
Fabric, like the transparent mesh spandex I use on the top of this dress.
Once you finish the edges of your sleeves, it\'s time to connect them to the top of the \"dicki\" you \'ve done before.
As mentioned earlier, it would be better if I linked you to a great sleeve insert tutorial as I am still new to this: sewing sleeves her tutorial is wonderful, very clear and useful.
Once you sew your sleeves on your shoulders, you simply sew from the bottom of your top to your underarm and then to your wrist to make sure that the \"right\" side is facing each other.
Sew slowly and carefully, take a moment, then rinse on the other side and repeat the whole process.
Turn it over and you should have the top of a full Elsa skirt.
Now that you have a transparent top, sequin case and lining, it\'s time to assemble! Hooray!
First of all, you need to zip up the cloak and adjust the length of the zipper to fit your skirt if necessary.
Maybe you\'re lucky to find a length that fits you, but if you don\'t, here\'s a tutorial on how to shorten the zipper: how to shorten the zipper.
I will elaborate on how to do this, but it will take some time as there are many different types of zippers.
For example, I used a 12 inch coil to separate the zipper while you can choose either a metal tooth zipper or a plastic tooth zipper.
The zipper should be as long as the width of the top of the cloak you want.
It should extend from below or behind one armpit to the same place on the other side.
My daughter\'s clothes need to be adjusted to around 9 th. 5 inches.
Once you shorten the zipper to the length you like, you can continue to connect the skirts to each other.
Place the lining on the skirt and then place the pure top on the skirt.
Adjust the lining so that it falls exactly where it needs to be placed on a pure top, then fold over the seam allowance and secure it to the top.
If you wish, you can choose to stitch it in place before moving to the sequin case.
In fact, I find it easier to do so.
The stitching can be shown because the line should match the fabric, and after the Assembly of the skirt is complete, you will add the rhinestones to it.
Repeat the process of the sequins shell, but be sure to pin the zipper in as well, exactly where you want to pin the zipper.
You need to use half of the zipper without the zipper pull, so that when the cloak is not connected, there will be no large lumps stuck in the ribs or armpits.
The zipper also needs to be placed, so the back of the zipper is facing outward and the front of the zipper is facing the back of the skirt.
Sew everything up and remove the pin.
At this point you should have a dress that is almost completely finished and the rest is just the hem.
For the hem, you can make another rolled hem like you do with the edge of the sleeve, or you can simply fold the ends and stitch them in place.
You\'re almost done!
Now all you need to do is stick glue on the rhinestones.
So many rhinestones
So many rhinestones.
Fortunately, this is a very simple part where you can do it while watching episodes of Big Bang Theory, or like me.
Draw the bottom of the corset you want.
It should be right below the shape of the sweetheart in the corset.
Then start using the rhinestones, start with the big ones, then gradually shrink to the point.
Put some glue where you want the rhinestones.
Then use a white eyeliner, a damp q-
Tip, or if you have a special tool for applying rhinestones, start applying them.
You don\'t want to apply too much glue, otherwise the glue will dry before you get it.
Once you get into the rhythm, you can start the adventure.
Make sure there is proper drying time before flipping and working on the back.
For pure tops and sleeves, put the skirt back on the skirt.
If you have an arm, it will come in handy here.
Put a wax paper between the transparent fabric and the shape of the skirt and mark your design on the skirt with a pencil.
Follow the same procedure as the bodice, apply a small amount of glue at a time and start applying the rhinestones in your design.
Feel free to add rhinestones along the collar.
Fabric Glue is very effective on stretching the fabric, especially when you start bonding the fabric will stretch a little.
Now you should have a full Elsa costume.
All that remains to be done is the Cape, which is in a separate instruction.
It can be found here: Elsa Cape structural ablenow you or your little human can run around like Elsa (
Magic is not included)
It looks gorgeous and shiny like the Snow Queen herself.
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