bicycle directional lights - simple, low cost, and solar powered

by:Max Apparel     2020-09-15
I use my bike to and from work, and with the fall coming, I find myself cycling home in the dark.
When my bike comes with running lights (
I wear reflective vests)
I\'m not particularly worried about being seen while I was peddling.
However, there is a tendency for gesture signals in the dark to be missed.
To improve the situation, I decided to use some direction lights.
We call them Blinken in eastern Massachusetts.
This note covers the process and materials I made for the Blinkahs.
Don\'t be intimidated by the number of steps in this structure.
Each step is short and concise.
Almost everyone has a photo to illustrate things.
There are hyphens before the operation steps-
Written in bold
Write comments and clarify descriptions in normal fonts.
The parts on the parts list are also shown in bold.
Let the project begin!
When I thought about how to do it, I decided that no matter what I finally got, I had to reach four key goals: 1.
The power supply must be renewable. e.
I don\'t want to change batteries-like ever. 2.
The project must be low cost. (ok cheap). 3.
Target number 3rd4.
The final product should not look like a science expo project for geek engineers. -
Solar lights: 2 for $6. 00.
Photos from Amazon.
Goal 1 satisfaction! -
1 inch PVC tee: 1 for $0. 86 from Lowes (
Or any equivalent store).
You will see a lot of references about Lowes here.
I have nothing to do with them.
There is one nearby.
The photos came from their website. -
1 inch PVC elbow: 2 for $1. 32 from Lowes (
Or any equivalent store). -
1 inch PVC pipe (10 ft. )
: 1 for $4. 48 from Lowes (
Or any equivalent store).
You have a lot left! -
2 pack of 3/4 -1.
5 inch stainless steel fixture: 1 pack for $1. 88 from Lowes (
Or any equivalent store). -
Wire sheath and 3/8 Thorn tee: It takes about 10 feet.
About $5, bought a sheath and a tee from Lowes. 00 total.
I already have these and can\'t find pictures of Lois.
This picture was taken on my workbench. -
Sheath cable: $1.
60 per linear meter.
About $8 in total, you will use about £ 5 m. 00.
I can\'t guarantee this product.
I was able to find some remnants from the work we did at work.
This photo from Amazon looks like the cable I use.
You will not communicate bits and bytes through it.
In this app we will only use it to view the transmitted light. -
Terminal blocks: purchased from the electronics store.
I have this in stock, but I guess it\'s about $2. -
Weldable breadboard: I already have one, but you can buy one for about $1 from any e-store or website.
You also need some miscellaneous supplies such as wires, tape, welding, etc.
I think you already have these things.
A total of $29 is therefore estimated.
$88 or less. Objective 2 -Check! -
After removing the attached bracket, remove the screw from the lamp holder.
This will allow you to remove the transparent top cover on the solar panel. -
Turn on the light and remove the solar panel cover.
This will expose the screws that hold the solar panel on the base. -
Remove the screws that fix the solar panel.
The light after dismantling should look like this photo. -
Pop-up button cover. -
Open the solar panel circuit to expose the button. -
Release the button terminal and remove the button from the board.
It would be helpful to use a flat screwdriver to gently pry the button under the unattached end. -
Welding causes the terminals on the board where the button was once located.
The board meeting is on hold for the time being.
We will install a terminal block on the bottom cover. -
Cut 3 segments from the terminal. -
Install 3 segment terminal blocks on the side of the base cover.
I used a small piece of metal screw and drilled a pilot hole.
Placement doesn\'t matter, but make sure you don\'t cover the light assembly holes.
Note that I re-
Attach mounting bracket.
I found it easier to hold when drilling holes and applying torque on screws. -
Pass the newly welded lead of the plate assembly through the button hole on the bottom cover. -
Peel the end of the wire and connect it to the terminal.
Do not connect the board assembly from the bottom cover for the time being.
Later, you will connect the fiber optic cable to the red lens through the third terminal.
The screws in the terminal block hold the cable in place. -
Slide the red lens cover in place. -
Observe and mark the position of the led bulb through the lens.
You will drill a angled hole in this position and connect the fiber optic cable inside the lens to the bulb. -
Remove the lens and carefully pass the hole through the lens at an angle that allows the cable to be inserted.
You have some freedom here when the cable is bent.
The plastic is brittle polycarbonate, so in order to reach the cable diameter, I used a 1/16 drill as a guide hole before switching to the final drill bit of 3/32.
Depending on the size of the cable you are using, you may want to do the same. -Re-
Assembly light temporarily on hold. (No photo)
This switch preparation process is based on the construction and installation of the switch assembly on the handle bracket, the handle breaks the rod.
I used the switch I removed from the board.
It\'s good that you can choose different methods.
If you choose a different switch, choose something like doorbell I. e.
It only \"opens\" when it is completely depressed \". -
Cut two pieces of plastic flat material.
The larger one is 22x45mm and the smaller one is 22x35mm.
These sizes work well on my bike.
Depending on how you want to connect it to the handle, it may vary depending on you.
I used 1/8 PVC but any plastic is OK.
However, it is important that the larger part be fairly rigid, as this will keep the switch in place when you press the switch. -
Loosen the screw from the handlebar holder and slide the large PVC block into place to lean it against the handlebar.
We call this button support. -
As shown in the figure, mark the position with a pencil. -
Remove the screws completely and mark the center of the screw hole on the button holder.
You will drill holes centered on this point. -
Remove the button holder and draw a straight line in the section at the top of the marker holder. -
Drill through the button bracket at the center point.
I drilled a pilot hole with a small bit first and then used a larger bit.
The hole must be at least as large as the diameter of the screw.
Please note that this hole is a bit off center.
This is the beauty of crafting.
Not perfect! -
Cut a breadboard and insert the switch you removed from the circuit before. -
Flip it and weld the lead to the switch pin.
I have also welded pins that are not connected in order to better keep the switch in the board. -
Take the smaller one of the two PVC rectangles and mark the center.
We call this a switch stand. -
Draw a square around the center mark with a pencil, which is roughly the same size as the square outline of the button. -
Drill a hole of the same diameter as the length of one side. -
Cut the corners to form a square.
I used Dremel for this part.
This hole is not necessarily perfect.
You will seal the gap later. -
Insert the switch into the square hole so that the round button protrudes from the surface of the switch holder. -
Place the switch holder on top of the button holder.
Line up your coat.
The bottom of the switch Holder should end right above the line you drew before.
This is important because if it is below the line, the holes on the button stand do not align with the screw holes on the handle. -
Connect the two pieces together with the screws.
I used sheet metal screws, but drilling and using machine screws with nuts can also work.
You now have a complete switch assembly.
When the lights and switch components are completed, you have completed the most difficult part of the project.
You will need to complete the following steps before entering the next stage. -
Have some beer to celebrate. (
Of course, if you\'re older)
It\'s important to enjoy your achievements.
Make sure it\'s in a cold cup with a big foam head!
I mentioned that I go to work by bike and I have nerdy iron baskets that span the rear wheels.
They are perfect for carrying laptops, clothes, lunch and tail lights!
I suggest you buy some if you don\'t have a saddle basket.
You will not regret it, the neighbor will only laugh at you for a while. -
Cut the pipe and install the elbows and tee as shown in the figure.
We call this a light fixture.
The whole length should be within the outer width of the basket.
The pipes are installed very closely on the sockets of the accessories.
I decided not to use any tube glue.
Let\'s see how it turns out. -
Install the fixture onto the basket using a pipe clamp.
Please note that I turned the tee 90 degrees to make it facing the front.
The wire sheath will slip into the opening end. -
Measure and cut the wire sheath so that it extends from the tee to the handle bar. -
Pass the wire and cable through the sheath.
Remember to pull two pairs of wires and pull a pair of fiber to power the two taillights. -
Pass the wire and fiber through the tee and elbow on both sides of the fixture. -
Connect the wire to the terminal block on the lamp. -
Pass the fiber optic cable through the junction box and insert it into the hole in the lens. -
Tighten the screws on the terminals to secure the fiber in place.
Don\'t be too tight, though. -
Slide the fixture mounting bracket into the elbow and tighten it. -
Swing the light in the right direction and tighten it. -
Tie the wire sheath to the bike frame for support.
Sufficient relaxation is allowed in the sheath by fork to allow the handle to rotate completely in both directions. -
Pass the wire and fiber through the thorn tee and insert the tee into the sheath. -
Wrap the tee with tape on the sheath. -
Cut a small sheath and cover the wires and fibers on the spur tee to the vicinity of the switch installation position. -
Pass the wire and cable through the sheath. -
Insert the thorn tee into the sheath and wrap it with tape.
You are at home now! -
Install the switch assembly on the hand brake handle bracket.
I initially installed the switch assembly in an upright position as shown on the left side.
It turns out to be a problem because I often turn the bike over and put it on the handlebar for repair or maintenance, and I can\'t do this well in an upright position with a plastic switch assembly.
So I ended up undoing and removing the switch, flipping the switch, reinstalling and connecting to the opposite handle.
Now the switch is under the handlebar and my thumb is still very accessible.
You might want to think about it too. -
Connect the wire through the sheath in the above step to the wire lead on the switch.
I screwed the wires together and welded the connections in place.
Then I covered the connection with shrink wrap.
Before connecting, remember to wrap the shrink around a wire.
You can use tape instead of shrink wrap.
I have never used shrink wrap before so I want to try it.
Watching zoom out is very effective and fun! -
Drill a hole right below the switch assembly, where the wires come out for fiber optic cables. (no photo).
The hole should be large enough so that the fibers fit comfortably. -
Push the fiber optic cable into the hole. -
Cut off the fiber with a practical razor and stick out about 1/8. -
Polish the ends of the fiber with fine sandpaper.
I used 220 and then 400 sand.
You may not need to be that good. -
Tie the wire connection and fiber optic cable to the handlebar. -
Click the button back!
Fiber optic cables are there for safety and the \"cool\" factor.
By looking at the fiber optic cable on the switch assembly, you\'ll see what\'s going on with the taillights.
This makes it unnecessary for you to turn your head to see if the lights are on, off, flashing quickly or flashing slowly, which will help keep you in the driveway! -
Seal around the edge with a sealant.
Use acrylic or four because you want to draw it. -
Paint the switch assembly with LaTeX.
This will help to prevent damage due to elements.
Paint carefully around the switch.
You will want to apply the paint to any gap between the switch body and the PVC to form a good seal, but not on the button itself. -
It was nice to ride a bike in town.
If you live in a tourist area or near the city, choose to go to the bar on Saturday.
My favorite place to go is Newport. I.
The bar is close and crowded with friendly residents.
Local and other-
The sidewalk is densely populated.
This will maximize the exposure of your bike.
If you understand what I mean, I usually stop at about 5 or 6 bars before I have to ride a bike; )
I hope you enjoy reading this instruction as much as I do and wish your bike home always sunny, downhill and most importantly safe!
Oh, as for the fourth goal-I let you decide!
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